Sunday, 2 February 2014

Week 18: I AMsterdam

Despite leaving my voice in Paris, I managed to flee the city for the first time since arriving (not counting going home). Making use of Paris' great inter-city rail connections, I (finally) found Charlie at Amsterdam Centraal station and had a laaaavly (albeit rather croaky and sniffly, which I'm sure Bindels appreciated) weekend of cycling, stroopwaffels and freezing cold canals in Amsterdam!
Museumplatz, Amsterdam. Dangerously used as a climbing frame by too many.

Amsterdam is distinctly smaller than Paris. There are less museums, exhibitions and historic buildings to admire. Instead of offering the same rich history as Paris, it is Amsterdam’s architecture that enthrals the visitor. The variety of gabled, terraced houses, narrow but deep, are every bit as beautiful as you’d expect. They line the canals, over which bridges cascade and cyclists steer around the dawdling tourists. The number of bikes made me feel nostalgic for Cambridge. Charlie and I did manage to fit one cycle ride in before the key for the lock went AWOL though.





Well heeded advice


It was so great to have an insight into the life Charlie is living this year, and nice to be the one visiting, and not hosting, for a change! I even got to meet Charlie’s brother, who after three and a half years of knowing Charlie, I’d never met in person, and was starting to become slowly convinced that he was a fiction…what kind of (great) name is Polka!? We all went to the Van Gogh museum together. I hadn’t realised that lots of his paintings have faded so much over time that the original colours have been lost; the irises used to be purple, before they turned to the blue we see them as today. 

Charlie's foolproof au-pairing techniques


Something which the Dutch seem to do really well is flea markets. Although Paris apparently plays home to the largest flea markets in Europe, the ones Charlie took me to in Amsterdam were excellent, with a whole array of crazy stuff: ancient tennis rackets, ice skates, retro cameras, boxes of just scissors, which were unnerving…and they had teacups, which is the only thing I ever need from a market. 





Despite having left the land of ze crepes, Holland is known for its poffertjes, little fluffy pancake puffs which you can smear with butter and maple syrup. Naturally, these little warming treats had to be tried, as did Dutch pancakes, and stroopwaffels. 

Stoopwaffels!




The Toilet Wall of Pancake Compliments




We went to a lovely literary café called Café Brecht, a cosy little café that feels like a grandma’s living room, with tasselled lamps and chintz armchairs. It was here, being warmed by the Gluhwein, that we had a blast with Charlie’s polaroid camera, which captured the interest of some other local customers, who we struggled to communicate with: “Big.” “Yes.”





We also reached the life-changing decision during our trip to the House Boat museum that house boats are the accommodation of the future. The one we visited was very cute, had running water and apparently they’re pretty cheap. In Amsterdam, they have 2,256 houseboats on the canals, according to the canal boat trip we took one evening. However, all the moorings are full, so you have to wait for one to leave to make space. Maybe there’s some space on the Cam…

View from the houseboat
Charlie and her soon-to-be new house?

Our canal boat trip

The village where Charlie is au-pairing is absolutely idyllic, and each morning the light streamed in through the tiny window in my attic room, showing me the grassy fields and blue skies.
The view from her front door








The Red Light District


A booby trap, on the floor outside a church...








Charlie really needed the toilet, so I made her stop to take lots of photos of a nice window.











Chocolonely: for all your comfort-eating needs








Sunday, 26 January 2014

Week 17: Old Olavians in Paris.

Jess and Diva came to visit! And it was a weekend punctuated by Paris' weird and wonderful...

The Catacombs

A trail through Paris' underground ossuaries, which were moved from cemeteries and packed into bone-walls to create more space in the existing cemeteries. The catacombs now house the bones of about 6 million people. Reassuringly, they have to remind the visiting public not to steal the bones...





Musee des Arts Forains

Viewing by appointment only, this private collection in the Bercy Pavillions hosts relics from 19th century funfairs. What's more, most of them are still fully functional, meaning that we went on a bicycle merry-go-round (as seen in Woody Allen's 'Midnight in Paris'), played on the Parisian Waiter's Derby (like a horse derby, but it's the waiters racing to serve their tables first), and a carousel. If you're in Paris and looking for something a bit out-of-the-ordinary, come here! You will be filled with glee as you are propelled around on a giant bike, the pedals of which you have lost control of.













Le Musée des Vampires

Another museum by appointment only, and continuing the weekend's theme of the wacky, the four of us spent 3 hours listening to a lecture on vampires in a shed filled with Jacques Sirgent's collection of vampire paraphernalia, as we lost all feeling in our freezing toes. We saw some crazy things: a mummified cat (taken from the Pere Lachaise cemetery), an authentic vampire slaying kit, Bram Stoker's (alleged) typewriter on which he wrote 'Dracula' and some taxidermied owls. To enter the museum, we walked down a garden path, lined with human skeletons also taken from the nearby cemetery, our guide told us proudly. Considering we'd all been somewhat worried beforehand that we might end up being murdered as we headed towards a meeting with a vampire-obsessed stranger, I guess we were lucky to come away with our lives. And some nuggets of wisdom about vampires. Did you know, for instance, the reason Mona Lisa is smiling like that? Coz she's a vampire. And most importantly, a vampire will only ever enter your house if you invite him in. So add him to the guestlist for a great dinner party conversation starter.










"Of all the things, the mask is the one thing visiting children are scared of."




Anti-vampire kit.



A few less strange things we did... 


Obligatory Eiffel Tower shot


Obligatory cheese eating


Obligatory Louvre visiting


The cultural outing proved a bit much for Diva

He found it really tough

Obligatory crepe eating

Jess feeling alarm on the metro

That awkward moment when me and Diva wore the same jumper...

...and Jess tried snails.


Love is in the air